When I booked my ride in Timor-Leste with Bike You in Darwin, I was excited and looking forward to riding a dirt bike in another country. I spoke with Tim Walker (owner of Bike You), who gave me a brief rundown on what to expect. He pointed out the bikes are 150cc four-strokes, and although we wouldn’t be ripping up single trails, he assured me I would enjoy the experience.
Now, back on Australian soil, I can tell you my expectations of riding in Timor-Leste were not met, they were exceeded.
Tim was 100% right. It’s not about the riding, although that is fun; it’s all about the experience, the history, the culture, and the people. Timor-Leste (formerly East Timor) is only 650km from Australia, and many Aussies don’t realise the shared history and strong ties we have with one of our closest neighbours. After spending five days (three days riding) with Anas and the Dili Dirt Bike Tours, you’ll come away with so many warm experiences there aren’t enough pages in ADB to express them all.
After being collected at the airport, the crew from Australia piled into the Toyota troop carrier and headed to our accommodation. Dili traffic was an eye-opener, with people of all ages riding mostly scooters, weaving their own path through traffic as if rules were secondary. No road rage, no incidents, just a polite beep of the horn as one scooter passed another in an endless flow of two and four wheels.
A greeting dinner served on the beach and the opportunity to climb the stairs to take in the beauty of “Cristo Rei” at night brought our first day in Dili to an end. The following morning, we were transported to Dili Dirt Bike Rentals and Tours, where a stable of new 150cc bikes met us. Honda, Yamaha, and Kawasaki were represented, and I claimed a CRF150 as my ride for the next three days. Anas gave us a rundown on the corner-man system and what to expect riding in the city before heading out of town and tackling the dirt.
Our first stop was not far down the road, and in the shade of a tree, Anas began to tell us the history of his beloved country. He spoke a wealth of information regarding Timor’s past and pointed out how much Australia was involved in helping during conflict. I then realised just how much Australians don’t know about Timor-Leste, despite our rich and strong shared history. This was not what I expected on a bike tour, but I found it absolutely fascinating.
Cruising up through the mountains was so relaxing, with stunning views. Our next stop was Timor Global, a coffee corporation, and our first lesson on arguably Timor’s greatest export, coffee. After a short break, the ride resumed, and finally, we hit some dirt. A short while later, the road opened up onto a wide, mostly dry riverbed where we had an opportunity to wind on the throttle of the CRF and have some fun racing upstream. When stopping for a regroup, we were greeted by some young children on their way to school. I put my hand out to say hello and was speechless when they each took turns holding and kissing the back of my hand. So respectful, it’s something I’ll never forget.
The next section was heaps of fun. Rough dirt roads, some washouts, and stunning scenery as we worked our way higher among the banana plantations. Our lunch break was under the shade of a gorgeous tree, among racks of drying coffee beans. Local food, local coffee, and stimulating conversation made for great memories – and it was only day one.
We had riders of varying abilities among us but what a great bunch of people. By now, we’d had plenty of time to chat at breaks and learn more about each other. Different ages, backgrounds, and jobs but one thing in common: motorcycles. What a great way to meet new friends and discover a new country.
As the afternoon wore on, the dirt roads varied in condition as we kept climbing higher until we finally arrived at our accommodation in the clouds. Maubisse is about 1500m above sea level and much cooler than Dili, but we were still keen for some cold Bintang beers to wash down the dust. The view from the alfresco dining area was great at night; however, breakfast as the sun rose over the low-lying cloud was absolutely stunning.
Our first stop of the day was just a few kilometres from the hotel, where we were taken on another history lesson as we wandered around the gardens of Pousada Maubisse. From there, we went further up into the mountains to visit the village of Rabilau. What happened next was an experience that must be seen and felt to be understood. It wasn’t just a welcoming ceremony, it was real. Traditional outfits, complete with feather headdresses, goat-skin ankle wraps, and faces that drew you in. You didn’t feel like a tourist watching a show while the next busload lined up behind you. No, this was different. Time was irrelevant. The greetings and smiles were real. That morning alone was worth the trip to Timor.
After leaving the village, our trail continued into the mountains where puddles and mud from recent rains filled the road. Suddenly, we came across two young backpackers. Anas stopped to make sure they were okay. When the guy asked for a lift to the main road, Anas didn’t hesitate and offered the young woman the pillion seat. The guy leapt onto the back of my CRF, and off we went. He was about six feet tall, wearing socks and slides, you can imagine what his feet looked like as he tried not to drag them on the muddy ground as we bounced our way down the mountain. After a few kilometres, we stopped, put my camera backpack on him, and lowered the pillion pegs, which we hadn’t realised were tucked away. That made the ride just a bit more comfortable for my new friend from Czechia but I think he needs new socks.
The last part of the road into our next accommodation was winding, smooth blacktop. Even on the little 150, it was a hoot! It’s all about corner speed, so many corners, mostly perfect, with the odd landslip to keep you on your toes. Just prior to our overnight stay at Same, we stopped to spend some time with local lads swimming in a beautiful spring-fed pool. With an audience to cheer them on, the challenge was set for the most acrobatic entry into the pool. If the weather was warmer, I would have joined them, but the altitude was definitely cooling things down.
On our final day of riding, we donned our gear before a leisurely breakfast, then rode down the street to the village fuel station. Unlike the standard service stations in Dili, this was old school – fuel in a bottle, expertly poured into our machines, ready for the next leg of the adventure. Anas enlightened us with one last history lesson when we visited the breathtaking statue of Dom Boaventura, who led the revolt against the Portuguese in 1912, another reminder of the turmoil Timor has endured over the years.
Our last day would be the longest on the bike, and the roads started out as nice dirt tracks dotted by houses and villages as we headed north. More blacktop was a welcome relief for some of us, a reprieve from the dust, and a nice transition from dirt rider to road rider, once again chasing the perfect corner. The scenery was magnificent, with forests and hills giving the impression you were a million miles from anyone. Then you’d come across some buildings, houses, and huts, just enough to remind you civilisation wasn’t far away.
In less than a day, we rode from the southern part of the island all the way to the north, then turned left for our final run back into Dili. Following the coastline, we found smooth, gorgeous roads, and it was difficult to maintain concentration with the ocean view grabbing your attention. Finally, back in Dili, we encountered the afternoon traffic but made it safely back to base camp, ready for the ride in the truck to our accommodation. Of course, we couldn’t pass the rooftop bar without a celebratory Bintang! Then it was off for a shower and one final dinner with newfound friends.
If you’re keen for adventure, enjoy learning about different cultures, and love riding dirt bikes, then Timor-Leste is the trip for you. It’s not just the riding, it’s the whole experience, and one I highly recommend. As an avid ADB fan, Tim from Bike You is offering a $200 discount on your very own Timor Tour. Just mention Australasian Dirt Bike when you book to take advantage of this limited offer.
Ten Top Timor Tips
- Don’t rely on your credit card. Cash is king in Timor-Leste, and USD is the currency to have.
- A visa will cost you $30 USD, paid at Dili Airport upon arrival, in cash.
- Look up the Dili website for visa applications a few days before departing. You’ll need a QR code to enter the country.
- The weather is tropical, warm and humid, but the mountains can be cold, particularly at night, so take a hoodie.
- Your Australian rider’s licence is all you need to ride on the roads in Timor-Leste.
- Global roaming works well, but Telstra will charge you $10 AUD per day.
- You ride on the left side of the road, so no surprises for Aussies.
- Tetun is the local language, and Portuguese is also spoken. Not much English, but that just adds to the experience!
- Your passport must be at least six months from expiry and have one full page spare.
- Power outlets vary, with a mix of Australian and two-pin American styles.
What Does It Cost?
The three-day, all-inclusive tour will set you back $2,995, which covers bike hire (no damage to pay for), accommodation (everyone gets their own room), food, and drinks (including beer at overnight stops).
Flights from Darwin are cheap — less than $700 return at the time of writing. From Sydney or Melbourne, return flights to Dili are between $1,500 and $2,000, so it might be worth extending your trip and staying in Darwin before or after your Timor tour. Perhaps even a ride around Darwin with Bike You on the way home?
You’ll also need travel insurance from a provider such as Travel Insurance Direct or Cover-More — just make sure they cover motorcycle riding. TID cost $110 for five days and covers bikes up to 250cc.
For more information, contact Bike You in Darwin:
Tim Walker — Phone: 0424 483 480
Email: admin@bikeyou.net
Website: www.bikeyou.net
