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2007 – 2011 Yamaha WR250F: Used Bike Review | Used Bikes

The WR250F is Yamaha’s smallest road-legal enduro weapon. It is not as big and heavy as the 450 and the power is much easier to manage on tight trails.

The 450’s power can be quite a handful, especially for smaller or less capable riders. This is where the Yamaha WR250F fits in well. Less-beefy riders tend to prefer riding the 250 as it is much less fatiguing and more forgiving. If you happen to get it stuck in a bog or a hole then it is much easier to lift out or to drag up a hill.

Now, before I go making the Yamaha WR250F sound like a beginner’s bike, it isn’t. It is still a very capable enduro machine and many experienced riders and racers choose to ride the 250 as they can ride them closer to their full potential rather than spending the whole day on the brakes of a 450 and fighting to keep it on the track. The WR is a rider-friendly bike to ride, which makes spending a whole day in the saddle relatively easy.


The Yamaha WR250F has a DOHC engine with bucket-type valve adjustment. This means that the camshafts run directly over the valves against a bucket and shims on the valve stem. To adjust the valve clearances the shims need to be replaced with the correct thickness to obtain the manufacturer’s recommended clearances.

Two-fifty four-stroke engines tend to have a reputation for wearing out valves due to the high revs they run at but, as far as reliability goes, the Yamaha has a great reputation. The air filter should be cleaned and re-oiled after every ride. If this is done correctly and regularly then the valves on the WR will last. If the bike is also chewing dirt through a dirty oil filter then not only will the valves wear out prematurely but so will the entire engine.

See the 2021 Yamaha WR250F Here

When buying a Yamaha WR250F second hand, ask for a service history and check to see that the bike has been maintained regularly. Ask about any major repairs such as piston or valve replacements. If this work has been carried out by a licensed mechanic then great, but if it has been a home job or carried out by someone’s uncle’s best mate’s brother who fixed a lawnmower once, then we’d suggest you steer clear.

I see several atrocious home jobs every week that need redoing. Start the engine and make sure it fires off the starter motor. The starter motors and sprag clutches have a habit of wearing out and can be very costly to replace. Make sure the bike runs with no rattles, doesn’t blow smoke and will idle well.

Check for oil leaks and check the oil tank at the front of the engine for damage. The position of the oil tank makes it susceptible to damage. Make sure the airbox looks clean, ride the bike and make sure it selects all gears cleanly and the clutch doesn’t slip. Lastly, check the fork for any leaks and check the wheel and frame bearings for any damage or excessive wear.

Technical Editor Mat Boyd

Prices according to

2007 $11,699
2008 $11,999
2009 $11,999
2010 $11,999
2011 $11,999

2007 $3550 – $4250
2008 $3800 – $4500
2009 $4050 – $4800
2010 $4700 – $5600
2011 $5100 – $6100