The 50th anniversary of the Tatts Finke Desert Race felt too important to simply fly in, watch some racing and fly home again. Finke is more than a race. It’s an adventure. It’s a pilgrimage. It’s one of those events that sits on every dirt bike rider’s bucket list. So rather than taking the easy option, we decided to make the journey part of the experience.
The plan was simple enough. My wife Abbey, our two kids Jax and Bonnie, and I would leave Sydney in the Ram 1500 Rebel Hurricane and make our way to Alice Springs. Along the way we’d stop and ride as many places as possible, meet some riders, see some country and show the kids a side of Australia most people never get to experience. The destination was Alice Springs, but the adventure was everything in between.
The first thing we noticed after loading the Ram was just how much gear we were carrying. There were dirt bikes, electric bikes, riding gear, camera equipment, camping gear, spare parts and enough food to survive a small apocalypse. Somehow it all fit. Once everything was packed and strapped down, we rolled out of Sydney and headed west.
LOUEE SETS THE TONE
Our first major stop was Louee, just outside Mudgee, and what a way to start the trip. I last visited Louee 10 years ago and since then we’d heard plenty about the facility over the years, but this was our first opportunity to properly experience it as a family. Straight away we could see why so many riders rave about the place.
Owner Ted gave us a tour of the facility and explained some of the constant improvements being made around the property. The scale of the place is impressive. There are motocross tracks for all different skill levels, enduro loops that meander through the bush in every direction and enough riding to keep a family entertained for days.
The atmosphere was what really stood out though. Louee feels welcoming. It doesn’t matter whether you’re a national-level rider or a kid riding their first bike, everyone seems to fit in. There are shaded areas everywhere, food available on site, camping facilities and plenty of places to escape the heat when the day starts warming up.
The riding itself was brilliant. The enduro loops offered a perfect mix of rocks, dirt, mud, water crossings and flowing singletrack. Despite very little rain in the area recently, the Louee crew had done an excellent job keeping dust under control. Water had been put into the tracks and conditions were about as good as you could ask for.
Jax immediately disappeared into the trails on the Surron Hyper Bee. Some of the singletrack flowed so well that I found myself struggling to keep up with him. Every time I thought I’d caught him he’d disappear around another corner and pop out further down the trail. The only thing that eventually stopped him was the battery running flat.
Bonnie had just as much fun. Riding her YCF around the junior areas, she never once felt intimidated despite being considerably slower than many of the other riders. People simply rode around her, gave her space and let her enjoy herself. That’s exactly the sort of environment kids need when they’re learning.
On our last bush loop of the day, Bonnie’s YCF ran out of battery. We were stranded in the bush with the light fading. Fortunately, a group of riders turned up just as I was wondering where I could hide the bike and ferry Bonnie out on my lap. The other riders were all too quick to help, loading Bonnie’s bike on their lap and ferrying it out of the trail and to the dge of the camp ground where I could come back and get it with the Ram. Big thanks to that friendly group of riders, Louee might have inherited a YCF otherwise!
One thing we particularly liked was the workshop setup. If you break something, there’s a mechanic available and parts can be purchased on site at cost price. Louee isn’t trying to make money out of riders needing repairs. They’re simply trying to keep people riding. It’s a refreshing approach and one that fits the whole vibe of the place.
Leaving Louee wasn’t easy. We could have happily spent another few days there, but Alice Springs wasn’t getting any closer. After one final ride and a few promises to return, we loaded up and headed towards Mudgee for the night.
DUBBO TO BROKEN HILL
The following morning we made a slight detour through Dubbo Zoo. Long road trips with kids are all about breaking things up and giving them something different to look forward to. After a few days of riding motorcycles, spending a day looking at animals was a welcome change of pace.
The zoo was a hit. The kids loved it, Abbey loved it and it gave everyone a chance to stretch their legs before we continued west.
From Dubbo we headed towards Broken Hill and the landscape slowly began to change. The roads became emptier, the trees became smaller and the horizons seemed to stretch forever. You could feel the outback starting to take over.
We spent the night at a caravan park just outside Broken Hill where the kids immediately disappeared on their electric bikes. The only rule was they had to ride at walking pace around the park. For hours they explored every corner they could find while Abbey and I sat back and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.
Campbells’ Caddy
The next morning we met up with local rider and ADB reader Campbell Cad. Campbell had only just returned from racing ProMX in Toowoomba but still took the time to show us around some of his local riding spots. It turned into one of the highlights of the entire trip.
Campbell took us through a riding area that featured multiple motocross tracks, open sections and a huge sandy riverbed where local riders practice their sand skills. The terrain was unreal. Deep sand, whoops, jumps, ruts and endless flowing sections made it impossible not to have fun.
Campbell took me down to a long sandy river bed that meandered on for kilometres with formed up berms to bounce back and forth on. When Campbell took off going from a left to a right-hand berm and so on and so forth for about 50 metres I thought he was going to turn around but he didn’t. He was absolutely blasting the berms and dragging his handlebar through the sand. After he disappeared around a corner in the dry river bed I figured I better follow him! I couldn’t keep up with Campbell but I could see the trenches he was leaving behind in the berms for me to follow.
What impressed us most was hearing Campbell’s story. He’s the sort of rider that keeps Australian motocross alive. A privateer chasing races wherever he can, supported by local businesses and sheer determination. We’ll tell his full story in the next issue of ADB, but spending a day riding with him was a reminder of how many great people there are in our sport.
After checking out Broken Hill’s famous mine and grabbing a few photos, we pointed the Ram south towards Adelaide. The next stage of the journey was about to begin.
THE FLINDERS RANGES
Adelaide was where we picked up the Offline Campers Ryder that would become our home for the remainder of the trip (see page 64). Once loaded with bikes, gear and supplies, we headed north with Offline Campers’ Sam Reynolds and his mates Jarrod and Alex towards the Flinders Ranges.
Nothing really prepares you for your first proper look at the Flinders. Massive mountain ranges rise out of nowhere and stretch across the horizon. Every direction seems to offer another incredible view.
We set up camp beside a dry river and immediately went riding. One of the highlights was Sunset Hill, a steep climb overlooking the ranges. Some sections were too steep for vehicles, so we tackled it on bikes instead. Jax rode to the top without any issues, while the rest of us required varying amounts of effort, pushing and determination. Sam’s son Will watched as some of the riders struggled and decided he’d tackle the climb on his Kawasaki KLX140 the next day. 24 hours later he did have a crack and he conquered it with ease. Will even passed his old man on the way with no problem at all! It was awesome to see Will conquer that hill with a bunch of fist bumps and high-fives when he made it to the top.
The view from the top was worth every bit of effort. Watching the sun disappear across the Flinders while surrounded by bikes, mates and family is one of those moments that sticks with you. Back at camp we lit a fire, cooked dinner and enjoyed one of those perfect outback evenings where nobody wants to go to bed.
The next morning the adults headed out for a proper ride. Jax and Bonnie stayed behind while we explored deeper into the ranges. The riding was spectacular. Fast twin-track, rocky climbs, river crossings and flowing sections that seemed to go forever. At one point, Jarrod didn’t see a little one foot kicker in the track and it nearly spat him over the ‘bars at 80km/h. He panic revved, brought it back down and puckered his arse. It was right in front of me so I got a laugh and I reckon Jarrod got a dirty set of undies. Nonetheless, it was a bloody impressive save!
Most of the day I was riding the Yamaha WR450F and absolutely loving it. The bike felt perfectly suited to the terrain and was making easy work of the fast tracks. Then, about 15 kilometres from civilisation, the fuel light came on.
We limped into a pub hoping they sold fuel. They didn’t. Fortunately another group of riders heading to Finke had experienced the exact same problem before. They showed us how to disconnect the fuel line from Jarrod’s KTM and use the fuel pump to squirt petrol into a cup by pressing the starter button.
It worked perfectly. We transferred enough fuel into the Yamaha to get moving again and rolled back into camp just before dark. It had been one of the best rides of the trip and one of the most scenic days I’ve ever spent on a dirt bike.
THE OODNADATTA TRACK
From the Flinders we pushed north through Marree and onto the Oodnadatta Track. This is the Australia that exists in people’s imaginations. Endless dirt roads, red landscapes, remote campsites and tiny towns connected by history.
We stopped at Lake Eyre, which was full and looking spectacular. Seeing water stretching across the horizon in a place that is usually dry was something special. The kids couldn’t believe how big it was.
Eventually we rolled into Coward Springs and set up camp. The thermal pool was exactly what everyone needed after days of driving and riding. The kids spent hours in the water while Abbey discovered the famous date and figg ice cream, which she immediately declared a trip highlight.
That night we gathered firewood using the Milwaukee battery chainsaw we’d brought along. Sitting around a campfire under a sky full of stars while listening to dingoes talking in the distance is one of those experiences you simply can’t replicate anywhere else.
The next stop was Coober Pedy. We explored the underground town, checked out the mines and spent the night underground before preparing for the final run north. By this stage everyone could sense Alice Springs getting closer.
ARRIVING AT FINKE COUNTRY
The final drive into Alice Springs wasn’t the most exciting section of the trip, but it carried plenty of anticipation. We’d spent over a week travelling, riding and exploring our way across Australia. Now we were finally arriving at the reason we’d started the journey in the first place.
The first thing we did wasn’t unpack. We went riding. Straight out to the old Finke track.
For any dirt bike rider, riding sections of the old Finke track is something special. The red dirt, the whoops, the rocks and the history all combine to create something unique. Jax and Bonnie absolutely loved it.
We spent the next week exploring different sections of the track, checking out the desert, watching preparations for the race and soaking in the atmosphere that only Finke can provide. Riding the old track as a family was one of the highlights of the entire trip.
Looking back now, Finke was only part of the adventure. The real memories are everything else. Louee. Broken Hill. Campbell’s tracks. The Flinders. Running out of fuel. Coward Springs. Campfires. Dingoes. Riding with the kids. Watching Australia change through the windscreen. That’s what made the trip special.
If you’re thinking about heading to Finke one day, don’t fly. Take the long way. Load up the bikes, grab the family and turn the journey into part of the adventure. You’ll discover places you never knew existed, meet people you’ll never forget and create memories that last far longer than a race result ever could.
For us, the 50th anniversary of Finke wasn’t just about getting to Alice Springs. It was about the road that got us there.
